There are people all around, but few of them are passengers. They are touts, hawkers, vagrants, drifters, thieves — a melee of dubiously intended hangers-around, each of them eyeing you with the stubborn, languid glare of a vulture. Set against a back wall, the sole ATM is flanked by armed guards, whose duties are particularly effortless, since the machine doesn’t work.
There is nowhere to sit, no seats. Which really is all right because the worst thing you can do is cease moving. The approximately 5-to-1 scoundrel-to-passenger ratio ensures you’ll never remain unmolested for more than a few seconds. The moment you stop, somebody is hovering over your shoulder, mumbling incoherently. Brush him away, and he is instantly replaced by a man asking if you’d like to buy a plastic watch or a counterfeit phone card. Well, “asking” isn’t quite the right word. His demeanor suggests you are required to buy a watch or a phone card. Resistance is futile, and in the honored tradition of third-world hustlers, he is a man of many trades. Do you need any souvenir trinkets? Do you need to exchange currency? Do you need a hotel room; it’s just up the road and his “cousin” is the “owner”? No? OK, then maybe you’re the giving sort and would be generous enough to simply hand over some money, along with a few of your clothes? You know, a gift, a small cadeau — to invoke that ubiquitous, reckless plea that floats about French-speaking Africa like a desperate wail. Your sneakers … what are those, New Balance? “Yes, you can give me those please, thank you. I can have your sneakers now. Cadeau? Cadeau?”
Avoid eye contact. Keep walking.
[Hat tip: Giselle]
In other Africa-related news, I had a German beer at this new African restaurant in Tallinn, “African Kitchen“. And no, I didn’t spot a single African in the place, Estonian-African or otherwise.
I’m willing to bet that this is the only African restaurant in the entire world that:
– has cocktails named after African countries, including poor and Muslim (ie, non-imbibing) ones like, say, Somalia.
– doesn’t sell a single African beer. Oh wait, there’s that “exotic” Mongozo Banana beer — turns out it’s from Belgium.
– advertises the services of its on-site sauna on the menu!
 
				    
